I mainly use laptops because I'm in tight spaces.

I almost never use them as a 'portable unit with battery' type
operation.

Example: I go to a library with a scanner and plug the unit into AC.
Bring a Desktop?


I have a very bad habit of using older units first and leaving a new
purchase in a box for years.(I have another thread under cmos batteries)

#1 QUESTION: Do all 'main batteries' act like Auto Batteries? Don't use
them and they are DEAD DESTROYED?


#2 QUESTION: Everybody wants to enjoy the longest usage possible out of
their unit. (I think)


Hardware.



I try to use an external keyboard.



BUT WHAT is this thing about the jacks/connectors ?????????????? I am
told especially the AC Adaptor jack will fail first. Every usage wiggles
it and it breaks in time. Is this Packard-Bell !!!!!???? I mean is its
only support really on the motherboard?

Right now with my laptop the AC cord is stiff as can be and pulling on
the jack all the time.

I've asked about making a homemade male/female male/female connection
there and leave a several inch stub connected all the time so plugging
in/out AC is not direct wiggling the motherboard. (no..sorry..the
male/female is an electronics term)


So how many do have the AC adaptor cord connection come off (break) the
motherboard?


I can't even get any info on the AC adaptor wire. [[[[ another issue
]]]] One of mine burned out in mid-wire and I spliced it open to find
what looks like coaxial cable with an aluminum shield. Solder aluminum?
(add a section of new wire)



Main question here if anybody can follow me is the AC ADAPTOR PLUG IN
JACK. How many come off motherboard very easily?
(snap,crackle,pop,broken)

"internet-terminal zz4" <bb5@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:20316-45460679-499@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net
> I mainly use laptops because I'm in tight spaces.
>
> I almost never use them as a 'portable unit with battery' type
> operation.

Best thing you can do is to leave the main battery out of the laptop
whenever you don't need battery power.

> Example: I go to a library with a scanner and plug the unit into AC.
> Bring a Desktop?
>
> I have a very bad habit of using older units first and leaving a new
> purchase in a box for years.(I have another thread under cmos
> batteries)

Oh... I hope you get a great deal on those new ones. As computer
technology quickly becomes outdated within a few years. I still use two
Toshiba 2595XDVD from '99 as my spares. One has Windows 98SE and the
other Windows 2000. Both are painfully slow with modern software. And
sometimes even with software of that era.

> #1 QUESTION: Do all 'main batteries' act like Auto Batteries? Don't
> use them and they are DEAD DESTROYED?

No just the opposite. Main batteries (Li-Ion type) likes sitting doing
nothing the best. Just recharge them before they self dischange very 6
to 12 months and then let them sit again. They can last 10 years or more
this way.

If you are worried about the power going out on you, buy a UPS (a cheap
one like 40 bucks) and plug your laptop into it. That is cheaper than
buying expensive laptop batteries like every 2 years.

> #2 QUESTION: Everybody wants to enjoy the longest usage possible out
> of their unit. (I think)

Yes, out of 6 laptops since '84 of mine is still running. Even 2 from
the 80's.

> Hardware.
>
> I try to use an external keyboard.

I am not sure why? Is this to save the laptop's keyboard? I have never
had a keyboard ever fail on my yet (since 1981). Although they do fail
for other people for some reason. What's my secret? I don't know, I like
to wash my hands a lot. And I am not a touch typists, nor am I a hunt
and peck typiests. I use two to three fingers to type and I have to look
at the keyboard. I type about 30 words per minute. I learned to type on
an old Remington typewriter. And the smaller fingers couldn't smack the
keys hard enough to leave a good impression (pun also intended).

> BUT WHAT is this thing about the jacks/connectors ?????????????? I am
> told especially the AC Adaptor jack will fail first. Every usage
> wiggles it and it breaks in time. Is this Packard-Bell !!!!!???? I
> mean is its only support really on the motherboard?

This does happen with a lot of people. But it has never happened to me
yet. Rule: Don't cause unnecessary stress on the plug and the jack.

> Right now with my laptop the AC cord is stiff as can be and pulling on
> the jack all the time.

It depends on how much pulling we are talking about? Like a weight of
say 5 pennys worth always tugging on the plug and jack shouldn't hurt it
one bit.

> I've asked about making a homemade male/female male/female connection
> there and leave a several inch stub connected all the time so plugging
> in/out AC is not direct wiggling the motherboard. (no..sorry..the
> male/female is an electronics term)

I would do the same thing. But I would only do this if the jack failed
first. Don't fix anything that isn't broken. ;)

> So how many do have the AC adaptor cord connection come off (break)
> the motherboard?

I believe this only happens if the plug and the jack gets bumped a lot.
So those no careful will have this problem and those that are careful
will never see it.

> I can't even get any info on the AC adaptor wire. [[[[ another issue
> ]]]] One of mine burned out in mid-wire and I spliced it open to find
> what looks like coaxial cable with an aluminum shield. Solder
> aluminum? (add a section of new wire)

Power supplies are generic (those made for computers anyway). You just
need the same voltage, polarity, and the same amperage (or better) and
there is no reason why it shouldn't work. The only catch I can think of
is surge current. But normally this is not a problem.

> Main question here if anybody can follow me is the AC ADAPTOR PLUG IN
> JACK. How many come off motherboard very easily?
> (snap,crackle,pop,broken)

Not many, but some people claim some models are worse than others. While
I say not many, I believe most people never see this problem. And for
some, they often see this problem a lot.

--
Bill

If you are not using the battery for portable operation, remove it. It
will last longest generally unused, however it is best to "cycle" the
battery somewhat every 3 to 9 months (don't discharge it deeply ... not
below 25%). It will be destroyed if you let it sit for years with zero use.

AC jacks are fine if used normally, but what happens is that they get
abused ... people pull on the cord, often at an angle, and that causes
simple mechanical failure (think, in particular, someone tripping over
the cord). I service laptops, and I see 100 to 200 per year. I see a
few percent of older laptops in which the AC connector has become a
problem. I'd say that most of the ones that I have seen (in fact,
really, all of them) were inadequately soldered at the factory to begin
with. ALL of the ones that I've seen -- a half dozen or so -- were
fixed just by resoldering. There was no actual hardware damage to the
connector, but it wasn't soldered well and the solder joint had broken.
These have all been Toshiba laptops. Some laptops have much flimsier
connectors that are more prone to failure (but I'd still say mechanical
failure from mechanical stress).

You definitely don't want to use a configuration in which, as you put
it, "the AC cord is stiff as can be and pulling on> the jack all the
time". That is a prescription for failure, and a failure that would be
no fault of the laptop or it's maker.


internet-terminal zz4 wrote:

> I mainly use laptops because I'm in tight spaces.
>
> I almost never use them as a 'portable unit with battery' type
> operation.
>
> Example: I go to a library with a scanner and plug the unit into AC.
> Bring a Desktop?
>
>
> I have a very bad habit of using older units first and leaving a new
> purchase in a box for years.(I have another thread under cmos batteries)
>
> #1 QUESTION: Do all 'main batteries' act like Auto Batteries? Don't use
> them and they are DEAD DESTROYED?
>
>
> #2 QUESTION: Everybody wants to enjoy the longest usage possible out of
> their unit. (I think)
>
>
> Hardware.
>
>
>
> I try to use an external keyboard.
>
>
>
> BUT WHAT is this thing about the jacks/connectors ?????????????? I am
> told especially the AC Adaptor jack will fail first. Every usage wiggles
> it and it breaks in time. Is this Packard-Bell !!!!!???? I mean is its
> only support really on the motherboard?
>
> Right now with my laptop the AC cord is stiff as can be and pulling on
> the jack all the time.
>
> I've asked about making a homemade male/female male/female connection
> there and leave a several inch stub connected all the time so plugging
> in/out AC is not direct wiggling the motherboard. (no..sorry..the
> male/female is an electronics term)
>
>
> So how many do have the AC adaptor cord connection come off (break) the
> motherboard?
>
>
> I can't even get any info on the AC adaptor wire. [[[[ another issue
> ]]]] One of mine burned out in mid-wire and I spliced it open to find
> what looks like coaxial cable with an aluminum shield. Solder aluminum?
> (add a section of new wire)
>
>
>
> Main question here if anybody can follow me is the AC ADAPTOR PLUG IN
> JACK. How many come off motherboard very easily?
> (snap,crackle,pop,broken)
>

I know things move FAST.

I'm kinda freaking out everything soon will be Vista.

I still have a 300mhz CTX laptop that still works except it has one dead
tiny line in the LCD. W98. (I think W98 with Bill's updaters is actually
W98SE?)

As of now it is SLOW. Still handles internet but soon an anti-virus
program will be bigger than the hard-drive. Off-Line with older
software/hardware I guess is the game.


I saw note of a $399 Wal-Mart laptop in this 'newsgroup'. Nope. If I
have laptops now wait till Vista. My collection has been mostly such
type 'bargains'. (bless credit cards)


The MAIN battery on the Compaq 2135US? At least computer shop said it
was 'stone DEAD'. Never used.

I have 2 never opened' Toshiba's..and 1 Compaq left. I guess it's dumb
TO NEVER OPEN.


I have bad luck with keyboards and keys going bad. Other than that I
hate them. Migraine headaches? Big Fingers? An external one is
wonderful.


Yes. I worry about 'jacks' that might be soldered to the motherboard and
going bad with 'no abuse'. The old Compaq I just started using the AC-DC
cord is some 75 watt STIFF STIFF stuff and it seems to put allot of
tension on the jack on back of laptop. Other things I hear about are LCD
hinges naturally break after so many sessions.


The AC/DC adaptor power line. The 'sealed with nuclear glue' box is
still good but buy new units over some wire? If correct voltage and
current handling capacity I can't see a problem.


BUT=== the cable seems to be some aluminum shielded 'something'...
(solder aluminum) I was told to just get some lamp cord and as long as
DC +_ correct it would work fine to add into where old cable went bad.
Solder the 2 inner COPPER wires. I guess don't be concerned with the
outer 'aluminum SHIELDING'.

Yes. I wonder about 'surges' but----

----------------------------

Soooooooo BUY A UPS and plug laptop into it? Never used one.
Connections an exact fit and variable voltage adjustments? Just what I
might need. Keep buying these AC/DC adaptor units they want $50-100 for
and for my purposes the UPS might be wonderful. I generally sit on a bed
and use the laptop. Every session I have to plug everything in.(tight
spaces here)

I don't need any flimsy AC/DC cord except I did get in a habit of going
to libraries with laptop and scanner. I don't know when they boot you
out but photocopy machines stink as to images in a book/article. It even
saves on photocopy charges.


yapped enough..


I just stopped by for laptop advice..


CMOS and hardware 'breakable's etc.etc.

Windows 98 and 98SE are two different operating systems. Updates do not
change 98 into 98SE, you have to do a total new OS install. While the
names are similar and the user interface is almost identical, internally
98SE is actually quite a bit different. In particular, 98SE supports
WDM model drivers, 98 does not. That means that 98SE will work with ME
drivers and even some XP drivers. It makes a huge difference, there is
actually quite a bit of software and hardware that works with 98SE but
not with 98.

Some laptops will last just about forever if not abused. And others are
junk. If you have extra laptops that you don't need, I'd sell the ones
you are not using on E-Bay. Right now is a far better time to sell them
than next February .... which will be both after the holidays, and after
Vista is out.


internet-terminal zz4 wrote:

> I know things move FAST.
>
> I'm kinda freaking out everything soon will be Vista.
>
> I still have a 300mhz CTX laptop that still works except it has one dead
> tiny line in the LCD. W98. (I think W98 with Bill's updaters is actually
> W98SE?)
>
> As of now it is SLOW. Still handles internet but soon an anti-virus
> program will be bigger than the hard-drive. Off-Line with older
> software/hardware I guess is the game.
>
>
> I saw note of a $399 Wal-Mart laptop in this 'newsgroup'. Nope. If I
> have laptops now wait till Vista. My collection has been mostly such
> type 'bargains'. (bless credit cards)
>
>
> The MAIN battery on the Compaq 2135US? At least computer shop said it
> was 'stone DEAD'. Never used.
>
> I have 2 never opened' Toshiba's..and 1 Compaq left. I guess it's dumb
> TO NEVER OPEN.
>
>
> I have bad luck with keyboards and keys going bad. Other than that I
> hate them. Migraine headaches? Big Fingers? An external one is
> wonderful.
>
>
> Yes. I worry about 'jacks' that might be soldered to the motherboard and
> going bad with 'no abuse'. The old Compaq I just started using the AC-DC
> cord is some 75 watt STIFF STIFF stuff and it seems to put allot of
> tension on the jack on back of laptop. Other things I hear about are LCD
> hinges naturally break after so many sessions.
>
>
> The AC/DC adaptor power line. The 'sealed with nuclear glue' box is
> still good but buy new units over some wire? If correct voltage and
> current handling capacity I can't see a problem.
>
>
> BUT=== the cable seems to be some aluminum shielded 'something'...
> (solder aluminum) I was told to just get some lamp cord and as long as
> DC +_ correct it would work fine to add into where old cable went bad.
> Solder the 2 inner COPPER wires. I guess don't be concerned with the
> outer 'aluminum SHIELDING'.
>
> Yes. I wonder about 'surges' but----
>
> ----------------------------
>
> Soooooooo BUY A UPS and plug laptop into it? Never used one.
> Connections an exact fit and variable voltage adjustments? Just what I
> might need. Keep buying these AC/DC adaptor units they want $50-100 for
> and for my purposes the UPS might be wonderful. I generally sit on a bed
> and use the laptop. Every session I have to plug everything in.(tight
> spaces here)
>
> I don't need any flimsy AC/DC cord except I did get in a habit of going
> to libraries with laptop and scanner. I don't know when they boot you
> out but photocopy machines stink as to images in a book/article. It even
> saves on photocopy charges.
>
>
> yapped enough..
>
>
> I just stopped by for laptop advice..
>
>
> CMOS and hardware 'breakable's etc.etc.
>

I replied by personal email.



W98SE?


I know nothing about it except my CTX Laptop has only W98 and I can't
recall anything USB that has not run with it. Even these 'flash drives'.
Most anything says W98SE minimum but?


I can't recall installing SE and it seems it would say so in 'computer
properties'.

"internet-terminal zz4" <bb5@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:21158-454791D2-583@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net
> I replied by personal email.
>
> W98SE?
>
> I know nothing about it except my CTX Laptop has only W98 and I can't
> recall anything USB that has not run with it. Even these 'flash
> drives'. Most anything says W98SE minimum but?
>
> I can't recall installing SE and it seems it would say so in 'computer
> properties'.

Try pressing the Windows key and Pause/Break at the same time. It will
tell you there.

--
Bill

USB isn't the issue. The USB support in 98 is fine. But 98SE supports
WDM model drivers, while 98 (1st edition) does not. This is huge,
because 98SE can use ME and even some XP drivers. There are many, many
things that run on 98SE but not on 98. While 98 and 98SE look very
similar externally, internally they are totally different, and 98SE is
far better.

98SE is a totally different OS than 98; there is no upgrade, other than
to install 98SE as a new OS (there was a 98 to 98SE upgrade CD, but it
was just a new operating system installation CD).

internet-terminal zz4 wrote:

> I replied by personal email.
> W98SE?
> I know nothing about it except my CTX Laptop has only W98 and I can't
> recall anything USB that has not run with it. Even these 'flash drives'.
> Most anything says W98SE minimum but?
>
> I can't recall installing SE and it seems it would say so in 'computer
> properties'.
>

"Barry Watzman" <WatzmanNOSPAM@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:4547B5AF.4060008@neo.rr.com
> ... (there was a 98 to 98SE upgrade CD,
> but it was just a new operating system installation CD).

It was available for like 30 to 90 days and it was one heck of a deal
for just 10 bucks. I wish I bought one at the time, as I have to
purchase the full blown upgrade a bit later. :(

--
Bill

It was available for a lot longer than that; it was available from when
98SE came out until slightly after ME came out. It was $15 (still a
deal), and I bought (and still have) 3 of them. It was only available
direct from the MS web site.

As a practical matter, most serious enthusiasts have a 98 full install
CD, and a product key that works. And 98 didn't do product activation,
so things that are not legal are still physically possible. However,
all of this is becomming more and more moot, since the chipsets that
have been introduced in the past year don't even support 98 or 98SE, at all.


BillW50 wrote:

> "Barry Watzman" <WatzmanNOSPAM@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:4547B5AF.4060008@neo.rr.com
>
>> ... (there was a 98 to 98SE upgrade CD,
>> but it was just a new operating system installation CD).
>
>
> It was available for like 30 to 90 days and it was one heck of a deal
> for just 10 bucks. I wish I bought one at the time, as I have to
> purchase the full blown upgrade a bit later. :(
>

"Barry Watzman" <WatzmanNOSPAM@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:4547C433.60700@neo.rr.com
> It was available for a lot longer than that; it was available from
> when 98SE came out until slightly after ME came out. It was $15
> (still a deal), and I bought (and still have) 3 of them. It was only
> available
> direct from the MS web site.
>
> As a practical matter, most serious enthusiasts have a 98 full install
> CD, and a product key that works. And 98 didn't do product
> activation, so things that are not legal are still physically
> possible. However,
> all of this is becomming more and more moot, since the chipsets that
> have been introduced in the past year don't even support 98 or 98SE,
> at all.

Hmmm... I remember 10 bucks? Yes I remember it was available from
Microsoft, but I also remembering (maybe incorrectly) that places like
BestBuy also carried it.

--
Bill

My recollection is strongly that the 98 to 98SE upgrade was not
available at retail. Of course there were 98SE upgrades at retail, and
they would work to upgrade 98 to 98SE, but they were intended for
Windows 3.x, Windows 95 and even, if I recall, NT (although not many NT
users would consider 98SE to have been an "upgrade"). And those were $100.


BillW50 wrote:

> "Barry Watzman" <WatzmanNOSPAM@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:4547C433.60700@neo.rr.com
>
>> It was available for a lot longer than that; it was available from
>> when 98SE came out until slightly after ME came out. It was $15
>> (still a deal), and I bought (and still have) 3 of them. It was only
>> available
>> direct from the MS web site.
>>
>> As a practical matter, most serious enthusiasts have a 98 full install
>> CD, and a product key that works. And 98 didn't do product
>> activation, so things that are not legal are still physically
>> possible. However,
>> all of this is becomming more and more moot, since the chipsets that
>> have been introduced in the past year don't even support 98 or 98SE,
>> at all.
>
>
> Hmmm... I remember 10 bucks? Yes I remember it was available from
> Microsoft, but I also remembering (maybe incorrectly) that places like
> BestBuy also carried it.
>